Hanfu is not a single garment — it is a family of clothing traditions spanning three thousand years and dozens of dynasties. This page is the index: the main types of hanfu, organised by dynasty, by garment and by occasion, with links to the detailed guides.
By dynasty: how hanfu changed over time
| Period | Silhouette | Signature garment | Guide |
|---|---|---|---|
| Han (206 BCE–220 CE) | Wrapped, layered | Zhiju and quju robes | Han dynasty hanfu |
| Wei-Jin (220–589) | Loose, wide sleeves | Open robes and flowing layers | Wei-Jin style hanfu |
| Tang (618–907) | High waist, colourful | Qixiong ruqun (chest-high skirt) | Tang dynasty hanfu |
| Song (960–1279) | Narrow, restrained | Beizi jacket over a ruqun | Song style hanfu |
| Ming (1368–1644) | Structured, layered | Stand collar, bijia, horse-face skirt | Ming dynasty hanfu |
For the full chronological history, read our complete guide to Chinese hanfu dress.
By garment type
Skirts
- Mamian qun (马面裙) — the horse-face skirt: flat side panels, wide knife pleats, wrap waist. The most popular hanfu garment today. Full guide
- Ruqun skirt — a long skirt tied at the waist or under the bust, worn with a short top.
- Heziqun — a chest-high Tang skirt worn with a short jacket.
Tops
- Cross-collar (交领) — the Y-shaped closure common to most dynasties.
- Stand collar (立领) — a high collar closing at the throat; the defining Ming detail.
- Round collar (圆领) — the yuanlingpao, a formal robe with a side closure.
Outer layers
- Bijia (比甲) — a sleeveless overcoat worn open over a top and skirt.
- Pifeng (披风) — a long sleeved coat with a folded-back collar.
- Beizi (褙子) — a long straight open-front jacket; the defining Song garment.
Dresses
- Single-piece hanfu dresses — one garment, no layering required. Browse hanfu dresses.
By use: which type is easiest to start with?
- Horse-face skirt — the most versatile entry point; works with modern tops. See mamian skirts.
- Stand-collar top — a hanfu detail wearable with jeans. See hanfu tops.
- Hanfu dress — one piece, no coordination. See hanfu dresses.
- Two-piece set — everything matches. See hanfu sets.
For detailed guidance on starting, read our hanfu buying guide and the hanfu size guide.
By colour
- Red hanfu — the festival and wedding colour.
- Black hanfu — the most versatile colour.
- White hanfu — the ethereal, xianqi look.
By audience
- Men’s hanfu — cross-collar robes, yuanlingpao and unisex sets.
- Plus size hanfu — sizing guidance up to 6XL.
- Hanfu for kids — sized by height, with safety notes.
Hanfu and neighbouring traditions
Hanfu is often confused with Korean hanbok and Japanese kimono. They share East Asian structural features — cross-over collars, wide sleeves, layered construction — but they are distinct garments:
- Hanfu vs kimono — what is the difference?
- Hanfu vs hanbok — what is the difference?
- Is hanfu Chinese or Korean? — the historical answer.
Frequently asked questions
How many types of hanfu are there?
There is no fixed number. Hanfu is usually classified by dynasty (Han, Wei-Jin, Tang, Song, Ming) and by garment type (ruqun, aoqun, beizi, yuanlingpao and others).
What is the most popular type of hanfu today?
The horse-face skirt (mamian qun), because it works with both hanfu tops and modern clothing.
What is the easiest hanfu for a beginner?
A horse-face skirt with a simple top, or a one-piece hanfu dress. Both avoid layering and complicated fastenings.
Is hanfu the same as kimono or hanbok?
No. They share East Asian roots, but hanfu is Chinese, hanbok is Korean and kimono is Japanese, each with distinct construction and history.