Should You Size Up or Down in Hanfu?

Short answer: size up. If you are between sizes, or unsure of your measurement, take the larger size. A hanfu that is slightly large can be tied tighter, belted or taken in at the waist. A hanfu that is too small cannot be worn at all.

Why sizing up is the right default

Chinese sizing runs small. A Chinese “Large” is often a US small or medium. The letter on the label is not a measurement.
Waistbands can be tightened, not loosened. A sash can take in 2–3 cm of waist; it cannot add any.
Layered garments need room. If you plan to wear a top under a robe, or a skirt over trousers, the outer layer must be bigger than your body measurement.
Shoulder width cannot be altered. If a top is tight across the shoulders, no adjustment fixes it.

When sizing up is wrong

Chest-high Tang skirts. These tie under the bust, not at the waist, so a large size can gape at the chest. Match the underbust measurement precisely.
Structured Ming tops. A stand collar that is too large will not sit against the neck; it needs to fit.
One-piece dresses with a fitted bodice. Follow the chest measurement exactly.

How to decide in 60 seconds

Measure your waist (narrowest point) and bust (fullest point) in centimetres.
Find the size whose measurement is at or just above your body measurement — never below.
If you are between two sizes, take the larger one.
If the listing only has S/M/L with no numbers, ask the seller for the waistband measurement.

Our hanfu size guide walks through each measurement.

What to do if it arrives too large

Tighten the sash. This solves 2–3 cm.
Move the waistband up or down. Small changes in the waist position change the fit.
Add an inner tie. A short ribbon sewn inside the waistband lets you cinch it.
Take it to a tailor. Taking in a waistband is cheap and quick; letting out is usually impossible.

What to do if it arrives too small

Check whether you are wearing it incorrectly — a horse-face skirt wrapped the wrong way can feel tighter.
Remove an inner layer and try again.
If it still does not close, return it. Do not force it; the fabric will tear at the closure.

Frequently asked questions

Should I size up in hanfu?

Yes, as a default. Chinese sizing runs one to two sizes smaller than US/EU sizing, and slightly large garments can be adjusted while small ones cannot.

Do hanfu sizes run small?

Yes. Always compare the measurements in centimetres rather than the S/M/L label.

What if I have no measuring tape?

Use a piece of string and a ruler. Measure the string against the ruler. Guessing from a clothing size you already own is unreliable because cuts differ.

Can I shrink or stretch hanfu?

Natural fibres like cotton and linen can shrink in hot water, which is not a reliable adjustment. Synthetic fabrics do not stretch back. Buy the right size instead.