Men’s hanfu is the part of the hanfu revival people ask about most and find the least information on. Most hanfu content is written for women, and most shop photography shows skirts. But the historical men’s wardrobe is well documented, and several of those garments are easier to wear today than the equivalent women’s pieces.
The main men’s hanfu garments
Yuanlingpao (round-collar robe)
A robe with a round neckline and a side closure, originally a formal garment worn at court. It is the most recognisable men’s hanfu, and it works well as a long coat over modern clothes. Because the closure is at the side rather than the front, it hangs in a clean vertical line.
Cross-collar robe (jiaoling pao)
The classic robe with a Y-shaped front closure, worn across many dynasties. It can be worn closed as a full robe or open as a long coat. This is the most versatile men’s piece.
Changshan (长衫)
A long, straight robe with a standing collar and a side closure, worn in the late imperial period. Simpler than the yuanlingpao and closer to a modern long coat in silhouette.
Zhiju (直裾) and quju (曲裾)
Earlier Han-dynasty robes that wrap around the body. Dramatic and historically distinctive, but less practical for everyday wear.
Unisex sets
Many modern hanfu sets are cut to work for both men and women: a wide-sleeve top with trousers or a wrap skirt. These are the easiest entry point for men because the fit is looser and less dependent on tailoring.
How men’s hanfu fits
Men’s hanfu is cut loose by design — it is not meant to be fitted. That makes it forgiving, but there are three things to check:
- Shoulder width. The garment should sit on your natural shoulder line. If the shoulders drop too far, the sleeves will drag.
- Robe length. Ankle-length is formal; mid-calf is easier to walk in and better for daily use.
- Sleeve width. Very wide sleeves photograph well but are impractical. A medium sleeve is the best compromise.
Our men’s hanfu collection lists measurements for each piece — check shoulder and length before ordering.
How to wear men’s hanfu today
- As a full robe for festivals, photoshoots and formal events. Wear it with flat cloth shoes or boots, and keep accessories minimal.
- As a long coat over a t-shirt and trousers. This is the most wearable option and looks intentional rather than costumed.
- As separates. A cross-collar top with modern trousers, or a hanfu vest over a shirt.
Choosing your first men’s piece
Start with either a cross-collar robe worn open as a coat, or a unisex two-piece set. Both are forgiving on fit and easy to combine with clothes you already own. Our Wei-Jin unisex two-piece set is a good example of a cut that works for both men and women.
Avoid starting with heavily embroidered ceremonial robes — they are expensive, formal, and hard to wear more than once.
Hair, shoes and accessories
- Hair: a topknot works for photoshoots but is not required. Loosely tied hair or short hair is fine.
- Shoes: flat cloth shoes, simple boots or plain leather shoes. Avoid sporty trainers with a formal robe.
- Accessories: a jade pendant, a fan or a belt. Keep it to one item.
Frequently asked questions
Can men wear hanfu skirts?
Historically, men wore robe-like garments rather than the pleated skirts worn by women. Modern unisex sets sometimes include a wrap skirt or wide trousers; both are accepted in the hanfu community.
Is men’s hanfu the same as a kimono or hanbok?
No. They share East Asian construction principles — cross-collar closures and wide sleeves — but they are distinct traditions with different proportions and garment types.
What size should I order?
Measure your shoulder width, chest and height, then compare with the size chart in centimetres. When between sizes, size up: hanfu is meant to be loose.
Browse the full men’s hanfu collection or the hanfu sets for two-piece options.