The hanfu top is the upper half of a hanfu outfit. It is also the easiest hanfu piece to wear on its own — a single top with jeans reads as intentional modern dress rather than costume.
The main types
Cross-collar top (交领)
The classic Y-shaped closure, worn with the left panel over the right. Historically the most common closure across dynasties.
- Fit: loose through the body; check shoulder width.
- Wear with: a skirt, trousers, or jeans.
Stand-collar top (立领)
A high collar closing at the throat, usually with a button loop. The defining Ming detail and the most modern-looking option.
- Fit: the collar must sit against the neck; do not size up.
- Wear with: a mamian skirt, wide trousers, or jeans.
Beizi (褙子)
A long, straight, open-front jacket worn over a top. Song in origin, and the most comfortable layer.
Short jacket (袄, ao)
A lined, hip-length jacket, often worn over a skirt.
Yuanlingpao-style round collar
A formal robe with a round collar and side closure — the most formal top shape.
Fit notes by type
| Type | Deciding measurement | Sizing advice |
|---|---|---|
| Cross-collar | Shoulder width, chest | Size up if between |
| Stand collar | Neck and shoulder | Match exactly |
| Beizi | Total length, sleeve | Loose by design |
| Round collar | Chest, shoulder | Match exactly |
How to wear a hanfu top with modern clothes
- With jeans: a stand-collar top tucked into straight-leg jeans. The easiest daily look.
- With a skirt: a cross-collar top over a plain midi skirt.
- As an outer layer: a beizi over a t-shirt and trousers.
- Under a coat: a stand-collar top under a modern wool coat — the collar is the detail that shows.
What to avoid
- Shiny polyester. It reads as costume. Matte cotton, linen and tencel read as clothing.
- Heavy embroidery on a daily top. Save it for events.
- Wearing it untucked with wide trousers unless the top is short — the proportions collapse.
Browse hanfu tops, or read types of hanfu and the size guide.
Frequently asked questions
What is a hanfu top called?
There is no single word. The common ones are 交领上襦 (cross-collar top), 立领 (stand collar), 褙子 (beizi jacket) and 袄 (lined jacket).
Can I wear a hanfu top with jeans?
Yes — that is the most common modern way to wear one. A stand-collar top works especially well.
Do hanfu tops run small?
Yes. Chinese sizing runs one to two sizes smaller than US/EU sizing, and shoulder width cannot be adjusted.
Read next: types of hanfu · size guide · beginner pieces