Ming dynasty attire (1368–1644) is the most reconstructed period in modern hanfu, and also the most regulated in its own time. What you wore signalled your rank, your occupation and your gender, and the rules were enforced by law.
The rank badge system
Ming officials wore a square embroidered badge (buzi, 补子) on the chest and back of their robes. The animal on the badge indicated rank: birds for civil officials, beasts for military officers. A first-rank civil official wore a crane; a first-rank military officer wore a lion.
| Rank | Civil (bird) | Military (beast) |
|---|---|---|
| 1st | Crane | Lion |
| 2nd | Golden pheasant | Tiger |
| 3rd | Peacock | Leopard |
| 4th | Wild goose | Tiger cat |
| 5th | Silver pheasant | Bear |
Wearing the wrong badge was a punishable offence, which is why the system is so well documented — and why reproductions are easy to check.
Official robes
Court dress was a round-collar robe (yuanlingpao) with a stiffened wing-shaped hat (wusha mao) and a belt whose material also indicated rank. Colour was regulated: yellow was reserved for the imperial family.
Scholar dress
Scholars and students wore cross-collar robes in muted colours, often with a soft cap and a sash. The look is the ancestor of the “Ming scholar” costume seen in photographs: robe, wide sleeves, minimal ornament.
What commoners wore
Ordinary people wore simpler versions of the same shapes: cross-collar tops and trousers, or short jackets with skirts for women. Sumptuary laws limited colour and ornament — commoners were generally barred from bright yellows and from certain embroideries.
Women’s Ming attire
- Aoqun (袄裙) — a longer, often lined top over a pleated skirt. The core Ming women’s outfit.
- Bijia (比甲) — a sleeveless overcoat worn open, creating a long vertical line.
- Mamian qun (马面裙) — the horse-face skirt with flat side panels and wide pleats.
- Stand collar (立领) — the defining Ming detail, closing at the throat with a button loop.
Read our horse-face skirt guide and Ming dynasty hanfu guide for construction detail.
How to wear Ming attire today
- Start with separates. A stand-collar top with a mamian skirt is the most wearable Ming look.
- Add a bijia for the vertical line and a formal feel.
- Keep colours restrained. Deep blue, ink, wine, muted green — Ming dress is less bright than Tang.
- Skip the rank badge unless you are in costume; wearing a specific rank is a historical claim, not decoration.
Our Ming dynasty hanfu collection covers the styles most people want.
Frequently asked questions
What did Ming dynasty officials wear?
A round-collar robe with a rank badge on the chest and back, a wing-shaped hat and a belt. The badge animal indicated civil or military rank.
What is a Ming dynasty outfit called?
There is no single name. The most common women’s combination is 袄裙 (aoqun): a lined top over a pleated skirt. Men wore robes — cross-collar or round-collar depending on status.
Did Ming women wear the horse-face skirt?
Yes — the mamian qun is most strongly associated with the Ming dynasty.
What colours were worn in the Ming dynasty?
Deep, restrained colours: blue, black, wine, dark green and white. Bright yellow was reserved for the imperial family.
Read next: Ming dynasty hanfu guide · types of hanfu · mamian qun guide