What Is a Beizi? The Song Dynasty Jacket Explained

A beizi (褙子) is a long, straight, open-front jacket worn over a top and skirt. It is the defining garment of Song dynasty dress: narrow, soft and unfitted, with a straight hem and often a contrasting border down the front.

How it differs from other outer layers

GarmentShapePeriod
BeiziLong, straight, open front, narrow sleevesSong
BijiaSleeveless overcoat, often shorterMing
PifengLong coat with sleeves and a folded collarMing
CapeSleeveless draped layerVarious

The beizi is the lightest of these — the line is straight from shoulder to hem, without shaping at the waist.

How it is worn

  • Open, never closed. The beizi hangs open, showing the top and skirt underneath.
  • Over a ruqun. The classic Song combination: top, skirt, then beizi over both.
  • With a sash. The sash goes under the beizi, so the beizi drapes over it.

Why it is the most wearable hanfu layer

  1. It does not restrict movement — no closure, no fitted seams.
  2. It works over modern clothes — a beizi over a t-shirt and jeans reads as a long cardigan.
  3. It is light — suitable for summer and spring.
  4. It photographs well — the straight line makes the body look taller.

How to style it today

  • Modern: a beizi over a plain top and wide trousers, flat shoes.
  • Song look: a pale beizi over a tonal ruqun, minimal accessories.
  • Layered: a beizi over a dress in winter, with a coat over that outdoors.

See the Song dynasty guide for the full context.

Sizing a beizi

Beizi are loose by design, so the deciding measurements are total length and sleeve length, not the chest. Choose a length that ends at mid-calf or the ankle for the traditional look.

Frequently asked questions

What is a beizi in hanfu?

A long, straight, open-front jacket worn over a top and skirt — the characteristic Song dynasty garment.

Is a beizi the same as a kimono?

No. A beizi is open-front and straight-cut with no belt; a kimono is a wrapped robe closed with an obi. See types of hanfu for the neighbour traditions.

Can men wear a beizi?

Yes — beizi-style jackets were worn by men in the Song period, and modern unisex versions exist.

Read next: Song dynasty hanfu · capes and cloaks · types of hanfu

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