A mamian qun (马面裙) is the horse-face skirt — a Chinese wrap skirt with two flat side panels and wide knife pleats at the front and back. It is the most popular hanfu garment today because it works with both hanfu tops and modern clothing.
The name
马面 (mǎmiàn) literally means “horse face”. The most common explanation is that the flat rectangular panel at the side resembles the flat face of a city wall’s horse-face gate structure. The name refers to the panel, not the pleats.
How it is built
| Part | Description |
|---|---|
| Two flat panels | Rectangular, worn at the hips — the “horse face” |
| Two pleated panels | Wide knife pleats at front and back |
| Waistband | Wide, often with an inner tie |
| Closure | Wrap and tie, left over right for living wear |
The construction is what makes the skirt move: the flat panels sit still while the pleats open and close as you walk.
History in one paragraph
The horse-face skirt developed during the Ming dynasty from earlier wrap skirts and became standard women’s wear through the Ming and Qing. Modern hanfu makers reproduce the Ming cut most often, which is why mamian qun is usually described as a Ming garment.
How to wear it
- Put the skirt on over your top.
- Hold the flat panels at your sides.
- Wrap the front panel across your body, then the back panel over it.
- Fasten the inner tie, then tie the outer sash.
- Check that the flat panels are at your sides, not the front.
Full step-by-step: how to tie a hanfu skirt.
With hanfu vs with modern clothes
- Hanfu: a stand-collar top or a cross-collar top, plus a sash.
- Modern: a fitted t-shirt, a fine-knit sweater or a blouse. Tuck it in to show the waistband.
- Shoes: flat leather shoes, Mary Janes or simple sandals.
Sizing
The waistband measurement in centimetres decides the fit, not the hip. Chinese sizing runs one to two sizes smaller than US/EU sizing — see our size guide.
Frequently asked questions
What does mamian qun mean?
“Horse-face skirt”. The name comes from the flat side panel, which resembles the horse-face structure of a city gate.
Is the mamian qun Ming dynasty?
It is most strongly associated with the Ming dynasty and is usually reproduced in the Ming cut, though the garment continued into the Qing.
How many pleats does a mamian qun have?
Typically 4–6 knife pleats on each pleated panel, but the number varies by maker and size. More pleats mean more fabric and a fuller swing.
Can I wear a mamian qun every day?
Yes — it is the most wearable hanfu garment. Pair it with a plain top and flat shoes.
Read next: full horse-face skirt guide · how to tie it · shop mamian skirts