Hanfu sizing is the single biggest reason people return or re-order hanfu. Chinese size charts run roughly one to two sizes smaller than US or EU sizing, and every workshop uses a slightly different chart — so the letter on the label tells you almost nothing. This guide explains how to measure yourself correctly, how to read a Chinese size chart, and how to choose a hanfu that fits the first time.
Why hanfu sizing is different
Most hanfu sold internationally is cut to Chinese domestic size charts. Three things make this confusing:
- Letter sizes are inconsistent. A “Medium” from one workshop can be a small from another.
- Measurements are in centimetres — always convert before comparing with your own measurements.
- Garment types fit differently. A cross-collar robe needs bust and shoulder room; a chest-high ruqun needs an underbust measurement; a horse-face skirt needs a waistband measurement rather than a hip measurement.
How to measure yourself
Measure over light clothing and keep the tape snug, not tight. Ask someone to help with the back measurements if you can.
Bust
Measure around the fullest part of the chest, keeping the tape level at the back.
Underbust
Measure directly under the bust. This is the key measurement for chest-high skirts and qixiong ruqun.
Waist
Measure around the narrowest part of your waist, usually just above the belly button. This is the measurement that matters for horse-face skirts and most skirt bottoms.
Hips
Measure around the fullest part of the hips, about 20 cm below the waist.
Shoulder width
Measure from the edge of one shoulder to the other, across the back. This matters for structured tops and capes.
Height and garment length
Record your height, and check the garment length in the listing. A skirt that is “ankle length” on a 160 cm model will sit at mid-calf on someone 175 cm tall.
How to read a Chinese size chart
Most listings give a table with columns for bust, waist, hip, shoulder and length, in centimetres. Work through it in this order:
- Find your waist in the waist column for skirts, or your bust for tops.
- Check the next column up if your measurement falls between two sizes — size up rather than down.
- Cross-check the length against your height.
- Look for a note about whether the fabric has stretch. Non-stretch fabrics need a little extra room.
If a listing only gives S/M/L with no measurements, ask the seller for the size chart before ordering. Any serious hanfu seller will have one.
Common sizing mistakes
- Ordering by letter size. Always use measurements.
- Ignoring the waistband on skirts. A horse-face skirt fits at the waist, and a sash can take in a little slack but cannot create room that is not there.
- Forgetting about layers. If you plan to wear a robe over a top, the robe needs room for both.
- Assuming “one size” means universal. It usually means a loose fit, not that it will fit everyone.
- Not checking garment length. This is the most common cause of disappointment on long skirts and robes.
Size guidance by garment type
Horse-face skirts
Fit is governed by the waistband. Measure your waist and compare with the waistband measurement. If you are between sizes, choose the larger one — the sash will hold it. See our mamian skirt collection for waistband measurements on each piece.
Cross-collar robes
These need room through the chest and shoulders. If you want to wear the robe as an outer layer, size up so it can sit over a top.
Chest-high skirts (ruqun)
These are tied under the bust, so the underbust measurement is the critical one. A loose fit is normal and is held by the tie.
Tops and jackets
Fit is governed by shoulder width and bust. Structured stand-collar tops have less give than soft cross-collar tops.
When in doubt, size up
A slightly large hanfu can be tied, belted or taken in. A hanfu that is too small cannot be worn. If you are between two sizes, take the larger one.
Still unsure? Read our complete horse-face skirt guide for skirt-specific fit notes, or browse the best sellers to see which pieces customers order most often.
Frequently asked questions
What size hanfu should I order?
Measure your bust, waist and height in centimetres, then match them to the size chart in the listing. Do not choose by letter size alone — Chinese sizing runs one to two sizes smaller than US and EU sizing.
Does hanfu sizing run small?
Yes. A Chinese ‘Large’ is often closer to a US small or medium. Always compare the measurements in centimetres rather than the label.
What if I am between two sizes?
Size up. A slightly large hanfu can be belted or taken in; a hanfu that is too small cannot be worn.
How do I measure my waist for a hanfu skirt?
Measure around the narrowest part of your waist, usually just above the belly button, with the tape snug but not tight. For a horse-face skirt, that waistband measurement is the one that matters.
Do all hanfu brands use the same size chart?
No. They vary significantly. Always use the measurements in the specific listing, and if a listing only offers S/M/L with no numbers, ask the seller before ordering.