What Is a Ruqun? The Top-and-Skirt Explained

A ruqun (襦裙) is a hanfu combination: a short top (襦, rú) worn over a long skirt (裙, qún). It is the oldest and most common hanfu silhouette, worn from the Han dynasty through the Ming with changing proportions.

What the two parts are

PartChineseWhat it is
Top襦 (rú)A short upper garment, cross-collar or stand-collar
Skirt裙 (qún)A long skirt, pleated or wrap, tied at the waist or under the bust

The main variants

Waist-high ruqun (齐腰襦裙)

The skirt ties at the natural waist. The most common and the easiest to wear.

Chest-high ruqun (齐胸襦裙)

The skirt ties under the bust — the Tang silhouette. See the Tang guide.

Aoqun (袄裙)

The Ming variant: a longer, often lined top over a pleated skirt. See the Ming guide.

How it is built

  • Two separate pieces, so you can size the top and skirt independently.
  • The skirt is held by a waistband and tie, not by elastic.
  • The top closes with a cross-collar or stand collar, with a sash or the skirt’s waistband over it.

Why it is the best first hanfu

  1. Fit is forgiving. Two pieces means two chances to get the size right.
  2. It can be worn separately. The top works with jeans; the skirt works with a modern top.
  3. It is cheap to start. You do not need an outer layer to look complete.
  4. It is comfortable. Loose top, tied skirt, flat shoes.

How to wear it

  1. Put the top on first.
  2. Wrap the skirt around your waist (or under the bust for chest-high).
  3. Tie the sash, check the overlap direction (left over right).
  4. Add a hairpin. Done.

See how to tie a hanfu skirt for the fastening details.

Sizing

Check the top’s shoulder width and the skirt’s waistband in centimetres. Chinese sizing runs one to two sizes smaller than US/EU — see the size guide.

Frequently asked questions

What is a ruqun?

A short top over a long skirt — the classic hanfu two-piece combination.

What is the difference between ruqun and aoqun?

Ruqun is the general term for a top-and-skirt outfit. Aoqun is the Ming version, with a longer, often lined top.

Is ruqun one piece or two?

Two: a separate top and skirt, tied at the waist or under the bust.

Read next: types of hanfu · hanfu dress types · beginner pieces

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