Hair is half the look. A hanfu outfit with loose modern hair reads as a costume party; the right updo makes it read as intentional. Here are the main traditional styles and which ones you can actually do yourself.
The main categories
1. Half-up, half-down (半扎)
The simplest and most wearable. The front section is gathered at the crown and pinned, the rest falls loose.
- Difficulty: easy
- Works with: any style, especially xianqi and Song
2. Single bun (单髻)
One bun at the crown or back of the head. The most common historical updo and the easiest formal style.
- Difficulty: easy to medium
- Works with: Ming and Tang
3. Double bun / twin loops (双髻)
Two buns or loops on either side. Historically associated with younger women and girls.
- Difficulty: medium
- Works with: Tang-inspired looks
4. Loop bun (环髻)
Hair formed into visible loops rather than a round bun. Dramatic in photographs.
- Difficulty: hard — usually needs padding or a hairpiece
5. Low chignon (低髻)
A bun at the nape. The most restrained and most modern-looking option.
- Difficulty: easy
- Works with: daily wear, mature looks
What you need
- Bobby pins in your hair colour.
- A rat or hair pad to give the bun volume — traditional updos are larger than modern buns.
- One or two hairpins (簪, zān) as the visible ornament.
- Ribbon for tying, if you are not using pins.
- Hairspray or wax for flyaways.
Which style suits which hanfu
| Style of dress | Hair |
|---|---|
| Xianqi / fairy | Half-up with loose hair, ribbon |
| Ming | Low bun, neat, one hairpin |
| Tang | High bun or double loops, floral ornaments |
| Song | Simple low bun, minimal ornament |
| Modern / new Chinese | Low chignon or a clean ponytail |
Common mistakes
- Too small a bun. Traditional updos are generous; a tight modern bun looks wrong with layered robes.
- Too many ornaments. One hairpin is enough; five reads as costume.
- Ignoring the front hairline. Traditional styles often leave a clean centre part with the front section swept back.
For the photo side, see our hanfu photoshoot guide.
Frequently asked questions
What hairstyles were worn with hanfu?
Buns, loops, half-up styles and low chignons, varying by dynasty and status. Ornament was carried in hairpins rather than in the hair itself.
Can I do a hanfu hairstyle with short hair?
Half-up styles and low chignons work with shoulder-length hair. For buns you may need a hairpiece or extensions.
What are hanfu hairpins called?
簪 (zān) for a single pin, 钗 (chāi) for a two-pronged pin, and 步摇 (bùyáo) for a dangling ornament that moves as you walk.
Read next: photoshoot guide · types of hanfu · fairy hanfu