Most people who try hanfu for the first time start with the wrong piece: something highly layered, hard to fasten, or so obviously a costume that it never leaves the wardrobe. If you want something you will actually wear, these five pieces are the best starting points.
How we ranked them
- Ease of wearing — how many pieces and ties are involved.
- Modern versatility — whether it works with ordinary clothes.
- Fit forgiveness — whether sizing mistakes are recoverable.
1. Horse-face skirt (马面裙)
The single best starting piece. It wraps and ties, so there is no complicated fastening; the flat side panels flatter most body types; and it looks intentional with a plain t-shirt or a knit sweater. Fit is governed by the waistband, and a sash can adjust a little slack.
Start with a simple cotton or tencel horse-face skirt in a neutral colour. Our complete horse-face skirt guide covers fabric, pleats and sizing.
2. Stand-collar top
A stand-collar shirt is the easiest way to wear a hanfu detail without wearing a hanfu outfit. It works with jeans, with a horse-face skirt, and under a jacket. It is also the most forgiving top to size, since it does not depend on a precise waist measurement.
See the Ming dynasty collection for stand-collar pieces.
3. Beizi jacket
A long, open-front jacket layered over anything. Because it is straight and open, it works over a modern dress or a t-shirt and jeans, and it adds a hanfu silhouette with almost no effort. Choose a mid-length beizi in a solid colour for the most wearable option.
4. Modernised hanfu dress
A single-piece dress with hanfu details — cross-collar, embroidery, jacquard — is the lowest-effort hanfu purchase. There is nothing to coordinate: put it on and you are dressed. Look for pieces described as “improved” or “modified” hanfu.
Our new Chinese style collection has several, including the full-body embroidered dress.
5. Two-piece set
A matching top and skirt set removes the coordination problem entirely and is usually better value than buying pieces separately. The national-style two-piece set is a good example: both pieces are cut to work together.
What not to buy first
- Full layered ceremonial sets. Beautiful, but they need several pieces to fasten correctly.
- Heavy embroidered robes. Expensive and formal — they will sit in the wardrobe.
- Very wide sleeve styles. Impractical for eating, travel and daily wear.
What to buy with your first piece
- A sash in a contrasting colour — a cheap upgrade that transforms the look.
- Flat shoes — flat leather or embroidered cloth shoes suit the silhouette.
- A simple hair accessory — one pin is enough.
Start with one piece, wear it three times, then decide what to add. A single horse-face skirt and a simple top is a complete beginner outfit — see our styling guide for how to put it together.
Frequently asked questions
What hanfu should a beginner buy first?
A horse-face skirt with a simple top, or a stand-collar top worn with jeans. Both avoid complex layering and are forgiving on fit.
How much should I spend on my first hanfu?
Start with a simple cotton or polyester piece rather than an embroidered set. You can add more once you know what you enjoy wearing.
Can I wear hanfu with modern clothes?
Yes — that is the easiest way to wear it. A horse-face skirt with a knit sweater, or a hanfu top with jeans, reads as intentional rather than costumed.
Do I need special accessories?
A sash and flat shoes are enough. Heavy hairpieces and props make an outfit look like a costume.
How do I know my size?
Measure in centimetres and compare with the listing. If you are between sizes, size up — the sash can take in a little.