If you have browsed Chinese fashion recently you have probably seen both 汉服 (hanfu) and 新中式 (xīn zhōngshì, “new Chinese style”) used to describe clothing that looks similar at a glance. They are not the same thing, and knowing the difference makes it much easier to find what you actually want to wear.
Traditional hanfu
Hanfu refers to the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, worn historically and reconstructed today. Traditional hanfu is defined by its construction: cross-collar or stand-collar closures, wrap skirts, layered robes, and specific garment types tied to specific dynasties.
The goal of traditional hanfu is historical accuracy. A Ming stand-collar top, a Tang chest-high ruqun and a Song beizi are all hanfu, and each follows its dynasty’s construction rules.
New Chinese style
New Chinese style takes elements of traditional Chinese clothing — stand collars, frog buttons, jacquard fabrics, ethnic embroidery, qipao silhouettes — and applies them to modern garment shapes. A new Chinese style jacket might have a stand collar but a modern cut; a new Chinese style dress might use a qipao-style button placket on a contemporary silhouette.
The goal of new Chinese style is wearability. It is designed to be worn to the office, to dinner and to travel, without looking like a costume.
How to tell them apart
- Construction: traditional hanfu uses historical cuts and closings; new Chinese style borrows the details but uses modern cuts.
- Silhouette: traditional hanfu is loose and layered; new Chinese style is usually fitted through the waist.
- Formality: traditional hanfu is worn for festivals, weddings and photoshoots; new Chinese style is worn daily.
- Accuracy: traditional hanfu cares about historical correctness; new Chinese style does not.
Which should you choose?
Choose traditional hanfu if…
- You want an outfit for a festival, a wedding or a photoshoot.
- You are interested in historical dress and want the correct construction.
- You are comfortable with a looser, layered silhouette.
Choose new Chinese style if…
- You want something you can wear regularly.
- You like Chinese detailing (stand collars, jacquard, embroidery) but want a modern fit.
- You want an entry point into Chinese-inspired clothing without committing to a hanfu outfit.
New Chinese style pieces to start with
Our new Chinese style collection has 12 pieces:
- Modified hanfu daily wear — a relaxed modernised silhouette for everyday use.
- Retro V-neck improved hanfu — a fitted top with Chinese detailing.
- Full-body embroidered dress — a more formal new Chinese style option.
- Plus size two-piece hanfu set — a matching top and horse-face skirt.
If you are not sure which direction to go, start with a horse-face skirt — it sits between the two styles and works with both.
The short version
Hanfu is historical; new Chinese style is contemporary. Hanfu is reconstructing the past; new Chinese style is translating it into daily life. Most people end up owning both.
Frequently asked questions
What is new Chinese style?
A modern fashion movement that applies Chinese details — stand collars, jacquard fabric, frog buttons, embroidery — to contemporary garment shapes.
Is new Chinese style the same as hanfu?
No. Hanfu reconstructs historical dress; new Chinese style translates its details into modern cuts. The construction is different.
Which is easier to wear daily?
New Chinese style, because it is cut like modern clothing and needs no layering, sash or special shoes.
Which is more expensive?
It varies. Traditional hanfu in silk, jacquard or heavy embroidery usually costs more than simple new Chinese style pieces, but formal new Chinese style can be expensive too.
Can I wear new Chinese style to work?
Yes — that is exactly what it is designed for. A stand-collar shirt or a jacquard blouse works in an office environment.