Hanfu has a vocabulary problem: almost every garment has several names, most of them in Chinese, and the same piece can be described differently by different sellers. This glossary covers the terms you will actually encounter when browsing hanfu online.
The basic terms
Hanfu (汉服)
Traditional clothing of the Han Chinese. Used broadly to cover historical dress from the Han dynasty through the Ming, and the modern revival movement based on it.
Ruqun (襦裙)
A short top (ru) worn over a long skirt (qun). One of the oldest and most common hanfu combinations, worn across many dynasties.
Aoqun (袄裙)
A Ming-era combination: a longer, often lined top (ao) worn over a pleated skirt. The most common formal Han women’s outfit in the Ming period.
Mamian qun (马面裙)
The “horse-face skirt”: a wrap skirt with flat side panels and wide knife pleats. Read our full horse-face skirt guide for detail.
The tops
Cross-collar (交领, jiaoling)
A top that closes with the right panel crossing over the left in a Y shape. The most common traditional closure.
Stand-collar (立领, ling)
A high collar that closes at the throat, often with a button. A Ming signature.
Round-collar (圆领, yuanling)
A robe with a round neckline and a side closure. Originally a formal style, now popular as a unisex robe.
The outer layers
Bijia (比甲)
A sleeveless overcoat, hip-length or longer, worn open over a top and skirt. Adds structure and warmth.
Pifeng (披风)
A long sleeved coat worn open, usually with a folded-back collar. The most formal outer layer.
Beizi (褙子)
A long, straight, open-front jacket with a narrow or collarless neckline. The defining Song dynasty garment.
Doupeng (斗篷) / cape
A cape or cloak worn over an outfit, usually for warmth or photography.
The bottoms
Qun (裙)
Any skirt.
Ruqun skirt
The long skirt worn as part of a ruqun, usually tied at the waist or under the bust.
Heziqun (诃子裙)
A chest-high skirt typical of Tang-era dress, often paired with a short jacket or scarf.
Accessories
Pibo (披帛)
A long scarf draped over the shoulders and arms, common in Tang-era dress.
Yun jian (云肩)
An embroidered collar worn over the shoulders, usually for formal or photographic looks.
Buzi (补子)
A woven or embroidered square badge worn on the chest of a formal robe, originally indicating rank.
Styles and materials
Jacquard
A fabric with the pattern woven in rather than printed. More durable and more expensive than print.
Tencel
A soft, drapey fibre made from wood pulp. Popular for summer hanfu.
Improved / modified hanfu (改良汉服)
A modernised cut that keeps hanfu details but changes the silhouette for everyday wear. See our new Chinese style vs traditional hanfu comparison.
Where to start
You do not need to know all of these terms to buy your first piece. The horse-face skirt and five best pieces for beginners are the simplest entry points.
Frequently asked questions
What does hanfu mean?
Hanfu (汉服) means ‘Han Chinese clothing’ — the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people, worn from the Han dynasty through the Ming.
What is a ruqun?
A short top (ru) worn over a long skirt (qun), one of the oldest and most common hanfu combinations.
What is an aoqun?
A Ming-era combination: a longer, often lined top (ao) over a pleated skirt (qun).
What is a mamian qun?
The horse-face skirt: a wrap skirt with flat side panels and wide knife pleats.
What is the difference between hanfu and hanbok?
Hanfu is Chinese; hanbok is Korean. They share East Asian structural features but are distinct garments with different histories.